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Bearded Dragon Care Log: What a Healthy Month of Records Looks Like

5 min read
HabitatTracker team

Bearded dragons have earned their place as one of the most popular reptile pets in the UK — they’re handleable, personable, and genuinely interesting to observe. They’re also one of the most complex animals to keep correctly. The interaction of UVB requirements, basking temperatures, feeding schedules that change dramatically with age, and the tendency toward brumation in winter means that “winging it” rarely goes well long-term.

A good care log doesn’t just record what happened — it builds the reference record that lets you notice when something has changed, and gives any vet who examines your animal the context to work with.

What Changes as They Age

Understanding how bearded dragon needs shift is essential before thinking about what to log.

Juveniles (0–12 months)

Young bearded dragons are high-energy and high-demand. Their diet should be approximately 70–80% live insects and 20–30% leafy greens — this ratio inverts as they mature. Juveniles should eat two to three times daily, with insect portions sized to no wider than the space between the eyes to prevent impaction risk.

At this stage, weight gain should be rapid and consistent. Any plateau or loss in a juvenile is worth investigating promptly.

Sub-adults and adults (12+ months)

By adulthood, the ratio flips: 65–90% leafy greens with insects offered every 24–72 hours. Adult bearded dragons should receive a fresh salad every single day, consisting of calcium-rich dark leafy greens — rocket (arugula), kale, mustard greens, collard greens, watercress, and spring mix are all excellent options.

Adults typically reach a healthy weight of 300–550 grams, though this varies by frame. The key indicator is body condition — you should be able to feel the spine but not see it prominently from above.

UVB: The Variable Keepers Most Often Get Wrong

Bearded dragons are one of the most UVB-dependent reptiles in the hobby. In the wild, they bask at UV indices of UVI 4 or higher — this demands proper UVB equipment rather than the low-output bulbs common in general reptile starter kits.

What to use

  • T5 HO UVB bulbs (10.0 or 12%) are the current standard
  • Positioning matters: 30–40cm distance from basking surface for T5 HO bulbs, covered enclosures
  • Replace UVB bulbs every six months regardless of whether they still emit visible light — UV output degrades long before the bulb stops glowing

What to log

The date you installed a UVB bulb is one of the most practically important records you can keep. A forgotten bulb six months past replacement is a real metabolic bone disease risk. Log the installation date and set a reminder.

Basking Temperatures

Bearded dragons are heliothermic — they thermoregulate by moving between temperature zones throughout the day. The enclosure needs:

  • Basking spot: 105–110°F (40–43°C), measured with an IR thermometer directly on the basking surface
  • Warm side ambient: 85–95°F (29–35°C)
  • Cool side ambient: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
  • Night-time: can drop to 65–70°F (18–21°C) — most UK homes are fine without supplemental night heating unless unusually cold

Verify temperatures monthly, especially in winter when central heating affects ambient room temperature unpredictably.

Brumation: The Seasonal Challenge

Brumation is the reptile equivalent of hibernation — a period of reduced activity and appetite that many bearded dragons enter in late autumn and winter, typically between October and February in the UK.

Signs of brumation include:

  • Reduced activity levels and increased time spent sleeping
  • Decreased or absent appetite (often 50–100% reduction)
  • Seeking out the cooler end of the enclosure

Brumation is normal and not a cause for alarm if your dragon is otherwise healthy and is not actively losing weight at an alarming rate. However, it can look identical to illness — which is why a weight log taken in the weeks before brumation begins is invaluable. A dragon that entered brumation at 420g and emerges at 405g has had a normal, healthy winter. A dragon that drops from 420g to 370g mid-brumation should be seen by a vet.

What a Healthy Month of Records Looks Like

Here’s a practical template for a month of bearded dragon care logging:

Daily:

  • Salad offered? Eaten or ignored?
  • Insects offered? Type, quantity, and how many were eaten?
  • UVB lights on for 12 hours?
  • Any unusual behaviour?

Weekly:

  • Weight (before feeding, same time of day)
  • Brief notes: energy level, appearance of stool, any shed patches

Monthly:

  • Temperature verification (all three zones)
  • Note the UVB bulb age (in months since last replacement)
  • Check for any physical changes — discolouration, changes in scale texture, eye appearance

Seasonal:

  • Note brumation start and end dates, weight at both points
  • If appetite is dramatically reduced, rule out illness first with a vet check before assuming brumation

HabitatTracker’s feeding log records every feeding — prey type, greens offered, and feeding response — while the weight log charts the trend that turns a single reading into a story. The journal notes feature is the right place for observations that don’t fit a specific log category — “ate half the salad, ignored the crickets, seemed lethargic” is the kind of note that looks unremarkable on day one and invaluable on day fourteen.

The Supplementation Log Nobody Keeps (But Should)

Most bearded dragon keepers use two supplements: a calcium powder (without D3 for animals under good UVB, with D3 for those without adequate UV exposure) and a multivitamin. The standard rotation for adults is calcium at most feedings and multivitamin once or twice per week.

Tracking supplementation in your notes catches the subtle drift that happens over months — it’s surprisingly easy to go from “multivitamin twice a week” to “multivitamin whenever I remember” without noticing. Metabolic bone disease rarely announces itself suddenly; it builds quietly over a supplementation deficit that a log would have caught.


This article is for informational purposes only. Consult a qualified exotic-species veterinarian for any health concerns about your bearded dragon.

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